The “W” trek – to Hotel Las Torres

The buzz around the dinner table last night had been who’s waking up at 3:30am to go view the Towers – the signature photo op for the entire park.  Troll the internet and you’ll see many a photo, some perhaps photoshopped, to show a vibrant red during sunrise on the towers.  For us, after our tough day the day before, we knew we weren’t getting up that early.  We like our panoramic views, just not quite that much!

For hut to hut treks such as this, you get what you get in the weather department.  It’s an interesting (though some might say relentless) way to travel – a different accommodation every night and the necessity to get from one place to the next – regardless of the weather.  We’d experienced something similar in our Switzerland adventure, going from blue skies, to a rainy day the next, to light snow on the third day.  It’s all part of the experience, for better and for worse.

Today was our day for a bit of weather.   While really not bad by any standards, clouds over the towers meant no views (there’s that 20-20 hindsight I mentioned).   There was a piece of us that said that’s ok – it’d been a pretty spectacular trip up until now – no problem.   Later, we’d heard of a few who did wake in the wee hours, only to turn back after a time.

The distance to return to Hotel Las Torres was short, only about 6km, and we’d already seen that a good portion of it was downhill.  And yes, we had the promise of spa services at the hotel…  That’s enough to put a spring in one’s step.

Packed up and fueled by the typical breakfast (including the sliced ham and cheese), and we headed out – immediately crossing the river that hugged the Refugio.  Retracing our steps, we quickly reached the place where the shortcut veered off to the right, we headed to the left and began our descent to the hotel.

With the remoteness of the entire park, one wonders how these refugios are stocked.   In New Hampshire, it’s the hut crews that regularly carry supplies to/from the huts, regularly traversing the trails – which might explain why they don’t have a stocked wine bar!    But when you’re in Chile, in goucho country, one does what gouchos do – use horses to bring supplies.  Here we saw some propane tanks being brought into the Refugio.  At another point, we’d seen the diesel fuel in the red gas containers being carried by the horses.

Soon enough, we arrived at Hotel Las Torres, thankful for a return to a bit of civilization.   This is one of those situations where it’s nice to reward one’s self for accomplishing something.  The “W” is truly amazing – awesome scenery and certainly an experience of a lifetime – not to detract from that.  But the Hotel Las Torres – while not an experience of a lifetime – was definitely on the upscale side – likely catering to those who had means, and who wanted an outdoor experience without all the headaches (like walking around, carrying a backpack or sleeping on the ground with the critters), so we got ourselves checked in, and settled more comfortably than we had over the past five days.

Indeed, they did have a spa – in the Mt. Washington Hotel fashion – with saunas, jacuzzis, massage services, and even including an ivy plant that was rooted and growing indoors and infiltrating the ceiling, walls, and elsewhere.   We opted for the matrimonial package – a combination of private sauna, dual massage, and finished off with a jacuzzi that included a dollup of champagne and cheese plate.  Just the thing after being a bit out in the (near) wilderness!

We had the next day nearly free before we needed to get on a 4pm bus that would take us to El Calafate, Argentina and the next leg of our South American adventure.  So, with that end-of-the-day spa pampering, a hearty meal in their restaurant, a good night’s rest, and with yet another good day of weather, we headed out for a little walk/day hike in the plains and rolling hills that surround Hotel Las Torres.   Of course, we ran into day trippers heading up the valley toward the three towers – some apparently better prepared than others – and some were like us, outside and on the trail, just because.

While the views weren’t quite as spectacular as some of the others we’d seen, the contrasts between plains, water, and snow-capped peaks were there, and just as breath taking.  It was also fun to see some of the other oddities – a car from Alaska in the parking lot, and their version of a ‘grocery store’…  All part of the journey!

Read more: Argentina and the Perito Moreno Glacier