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2023-04-14
Fanes to Lagazuoi – Day 3/4
Posted by pdittman on October 7th, 2022 in '22 - Dolomites & Slovenia, Hiking/Trekking, Vacations

We knew this was going to be a big day – spoiler alert – it was! But it was also an amazing hike all around – the terrain, the elevation changes (ascent: 4000ft, descent: 1800ft), and the distance – 10.5mi all combined for an epic day.

Again, the weather apps were wrong – they’d been predicting 70% chance of rain each day – just wasn’t happening. After yet another amazing breakfast spread – meats, cheeses, yogurt, granola, boiled eggs (the rifugios served raw eggs and provided boiling water to make your own) – every morning was a feast, Fanes didn’t disappoint.

We said goodbye to Fanes and were on our way – up, of course! From the rifugio, we were following route 11 for a distance.

Gaining elevation, we reached a bit of a grassy plateau, and were treated to the first of many stunning views for the day to come.

Grassy plateau of the Passo Tagéda above Rifugio Fanes

While planning this leg of the AV1, I’d read that a section of route 20B, which passed through Forcella del Lago, was closed due to some rock fall. On the map, there was an alternate – adding roughly a mile distance – continuing to head westward on route 11 toward Capanna Alpina, then south eastward on route 20 toward Rifugio Scotini.

Game day decision – brand new signage, suggesting that route 20B was open. We still decided on the route 11/20 detour toward Rifugio Scotini.

Route 11 headed westward toward Capanna Alpina
Scenic overlook with Capanna Alpina and San Cassiano in the distance

This “detour” brought us to a beautiful scenic overlook, one which seemed to be pretty popular with others – offering what appeared to be a nice day hike from the valley – and offering us a chance for a rare photo of both of us.

But soon enough, time to continue on – which, of course meant some elevation change. From this overlook, where else but down! Check out the people on the trail in the lower left of the following photo!

A bit challenging on the descent, but it passed quickly. It was in that ‘valley’ where we paused to chat with a couple of fellow trekkers from Vancouver. They weren’t doing the entire AV1, instead bouncing between local towns (such as San Cassiano, San Vito, and others – a few days in the valleys and a few days in the mountains) – a nice alternative to the straight AV1 trek.

Continuing on route 20, we had a relatively short ascent on what is a ski slope to Rifugio Scotini – just in time for some lunch! Again, many day-trippers, enjoying the sun.

Rifugio Scotini – and a welcome lunch break

Soon enough, time to continue on toward Rifugio Lagazuoi – part 2 of the day’s epic adventure. We were getting accustomed to sections of the trek with significant ascents/descents. As much as we’d left a descent from the scenic overlook, we now had an ascent from Rifugio Scotini. As with others, someone was kind enough to create switchbacks 🙂

Route 20 departing from Rifugio Scotini

Always remembering to “smell the roses” – looking backward, an amazing view of the ‘valley’ – Scotini in that grassy section mid-photo – quite the ascent.

And looking forward, the trail was a gradual ascent – with what was Rifugio Lagazuoi in the far distance (upper right of the photo).

Shortly passing Lago Lagazuoi – which was providing a bit of relaxation for a few trekkers. And it was also here that we were able to spot the other part of route 20B – that detour – which descended from that notch in the upper right, across the scree field. We were thankful we didn’t take that route – we would have missed Scotini and it would have been a challenge with a loaded pack.

Lago Lagazuoi with route 20B entering on the scree field

Noticeably, as we were gaining altitude, we were leaving grassy terrain and entering the alpine zone – rocky. Still easy footing on the trail, not like what we’re accustomed – boulders in New Hampshire’s White mountains.

Rocky “moonscape” in the alpine zone with Rifugio Lagazuoi far in the distance

And with one last push, more switchbacks to the Rifugio.

Last section approaching Rifugio Lagazuoi – passing through remnants of the WW1 frontline between Italy and Austria

It was a ‘relief’ to arrive at the Rifugio – it’d been an epic hike. An amazing variety of terrain – starting with the grassy section above Fanes, through the descent/ascent to Scotini, then ascent into the alpine zone, finally reaching the Rifugio. Checking in and getting settled a bit, we enjoyed our post-hike Campari and soda – and were treated to a bowl of potato chips.

and enjoyed a view which couldn’t be beat!

What better way to sit and just be.

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