The GR10 and Nouvelle-Aquitaine Region
Posted by pdittman on September 20th, 2018 in '18 - Pyrenees-GR10

It all started with a conversation with some Brits while we were on our first multi-day trek in Alpiglen, Switzerland in 2012.  They talked about the GR10 as a long distance hiking trail between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic coast paralleling the Pyrenean/Spanish border in France.

What’s a GR?   France is virtually blanketed with long distance hiking trails – Grande Randonnée – with the GR10 stretching from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, covering a distance of roughly 540 miles and typically taking 50+days to traverse.

france GRs
GR (Grande Randonnée) trails in France

Fast forward six years…

Without the kind of time needed for the entire GR, we sought a section a section that would give us a good sense of the overall GR10 experience, that had some great views and challenging terrain, and that could be combined with some more traditional vacationing.

itinerary

As usual, after a bunch of research, a few maps and books later and we identified a section that would give us a great taste of what the GR had to offer.   

The plan was to fly to Paris and then onward to Pau in the southwest of France.  Pau was to be our ‘home-base’, bookending our days in the Pyrenees, enabling us to leave a suitcase and not tote some extras through the mountains.  We expected four days in the mountains on the GR10 – beginning in Lescun, and following the GR10 to end in the ski resort of Gourette.   Returning to Pau for another day/night, then grabbing a rental car to drive to Arcachon on the southwest coast for some relaxing days in the coastal resort.

We settled on a section of the GR10 between Lescun and Gourette, spanning 4 days on the trail, roughly 40 miles, and a total elevation gain over 12,500ft (nearly 2.5 vertical miles!).   This section is close to Pau, a regional city with good air and ground transportation options. And it was a section that was near enough to the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of France, an area of France known for its farm produce, cheese, and wine (Bordeaux!).  Coincidentally, it was that same Switzerland trip where we learned about the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of France.

GR10 - Lescun to Gourette
Our planned GR10 sections – Lescun to Gourette

In total, our GR10 sections spanned roughly 50 miles, with about 15,000 feet of elevation gain.  The sections would leave is in villages each night, with only a single night in a mountain refuge (wow!)

Read more about each of the sections – and check out some of the breathtaking scenery – some of the best we’ve ever seen:

Lescun to Etsaut
Etsaut to Refuge D’Ayous
Refuge to Gabas
Gabas to Gourette

Also check out our chill time out the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, njoying the oysters (20 million pounds per year!) and, of course, the food (!), wine, and France (“Paris is not France”).

À bientôt!

 

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Lescun to Etsaut – oops!
We’d planned to be on the trail on the day after arriving in France. Always a bit risky in the event our backpacks got lost in transit – but we arrived in Paris as did our backpacks, and transferred to our Paris-Pau flight without incident. Arriving in Pau, we were easily able to get on the P20 bus to take us into downtown Pau – location of Hotel D’Adour, the hotel we were using to bookend our hiking. Only a few days
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GR10 – Etsaut to Refuge D’Ayous
Our first real day of section hiking the GR10,  was a fairly big day.  The cicerone guide we’d been using as the basis for the trip had listed the section as Etsaut to Gabas – a 14-15 mile, 5,000 feet of elevation gain, monster of a hike.  Daunting on any day, more so because we’d be with full packs. Fortunately, we discovered and were able to secure beds at the Refuge D’Ayous – a mountain hut staffed by (what seemed
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GR10 – Refuge D’Ayous to Gabas
We’ve stayed at Refuges on some of our other trekking experiences – we’re really not backpackers/campers – most often, you can find us at one of the Appalachian Mountain Club huts in the white mountains of New Hampshire, and we’ve also stayed at Refugios in Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia (such as Refugio Grey), and the Berghaus’ which dot the Jungfrau region of the Swiss Alps (see our blog on the Jungfrau).  Staying at the Refuge D’Ayous hut would be yet
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GR10 – Gabas to Gourette
The Gabas to Gourette section of the GR10 probably falls into the category of “what were we thinking!”. On paper, it was big, over 13 miles, with an elevation gain of 5300 feet, and an elevation loss of 4600 feet. A mile up, a mile down!  Book time was 8-9 hours, but the GR10 signs were saying nearly 10 hours. We’d already learned to respect the signs. Reflecting back, this hike was epic all around.  Besides the numbers, it had
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Goodbye to Pyrenees, hello wine and oysters!
We’d finished up our GR10 section hiking in the village of Gourette – a ski resort nestled in the Pyrenees about 30 miles south of Pau – our starting and ending point for our adventure in the Pyrenees. In the high season, one can catch a bus from Gourette to Pau, but in the shoulder season, the Pau bus leave from Laruns – a nearby town.  We’d planned to walk from Gourette to Laruns for the bus, but arriving in
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