We’d decided on a visit to Andorra partly because of it’s close proximity to Barcelona and Spain’s Costa Brava region and because we’d had a great experience a few years back when we visited the Pyrenees via Pau, France.
Unlike many other regions in Europe, we’d heard little of it – not too surprising since it’s the 6th smallest European microstate – so we didn’t have much first-hand knowledge other than the internet, pictures, and maps. Sure, it was mountainous, but all the pictures and the tightness of the contour lines on the maps didn’t really convey the true majesty and enormity of Andorra’s landscape.
What really brought that feeling home was the sense that there wasn’t a single, level road in the country! All driving felt either uphill or downhill – no exceptions – and with some slope on one side or the other. I suppose the real tip-off is when the street map looks like contour lines – with tight, hairpin turns! We were definitely in the mountains. The other aspect we didn’t appreciate until arriving was that most of the habited areas in the country were at or above 6000′. By itself not alarming, but that meant all hiking gained elevation from there.
Among other things, Andorra is known for the Grandvalira ski resort. Unlike here in the states, where “resort” elicits the notion of one (or two) mountains with a number of trails (such as Loon mountain, which covers less than a square mile), the Grandvalira covers 128 mi2 – nearly 75% of the country’s size!
Back to the hiking – our real reason to visit. Not surprising – summer and shoulder season in a ski resort means hiking – LOTs of trails to choose. But being shoulder season, many hotels were closed in preparation for ski season. We’d settled on accommodations in Soldeu – and developed a short list of hikes nearby – mainly to minimize the drive times to the trailheads (remember those hairpin turns?).
Our first hike was Vall d’Juclar. An out-and-back route of about 4.5 miles and an elevation gain of 1,600 feet through the Juclar valley. The trailhead began at the Pont de la Baladosa, what looked like a small botique hotel and restaurant at the end of a single-lane road.
Through the lower Juclar valley, the trail was easy to follow and with easy footing as it gradually ascended through rock strewn areas. We slowly emerged from tree-line as the sun was rising over the nearby ridge, eventually arriving at the Rifugi Juclar – shades of the AMC-managed huts in the white mountains.
The area around the hut was beautiful – the Estany Juclar pristine against the brilliant blue. Sadly, showing a ring above the water line from reduced water levels.
Even at this time of year, there were two crew members operating the hut – all ready for the vistors!
Soon enough, we departed, and as customary, we enjoyed the views which were behind us during our ascent. One of the many mountains with ski trails in the distance.
In the end, the Juclar valley was a great first hike in Andorra.