The village of Kalavryta on the Peloponnese peninsula had popped up in our early Greece research, first for the unusual hiking offered in the stunning Vouraikos Gorge, and for the mountainous region and outdoor opportunities around the very alpine-esque village itself. Adding to the attractiveness of the area was the Odontotos Rack Railway, a narrow-gauge railway with mechanical rack assistance for the steep ascent into Kalavryta which doubled as a popular hiking trail. The area seemed like a natural fit into our itinerary as we would head back toward Athens on our way home.
Between our initial itinerary development and our departure, we had come to learn of a very dark and tragic fate experienced by Kalavryta during WWII. The village was the focus of German anger in response to the Greek Resistance during the war, culminating in the Kalavryta Massacre and the near-extermination of the male population (700 men and boys) and the total destruction of the town.
As it happened, as we got to chatting with the husband/wife hosts at the Alpine Aria, a wonderful aparthotel on the outskirts of town – that his mother, still alive today, had survived the horror of the massacre, as an eight year old child.
It seemed respectful for our first full day in Kalavryta to begin with a visit to the Kalavryta Holocaust Museum, housed in the building which had been the schoolhouse where the women and children had been locked while the men were shepherded to the hills for massacre.
Chilling, sobering, and starkly moving, especially in our current political era. For us, it was an important and a respectful cultural acknowledgement as we sought to enjoy the village and its surroundings as it is today.
The balance of that day was geared toward a hike on the Odontotos Rack Railway, part of the Chelmos – Vouraikos National Park – a UNESCO Global Geopark – which had been our original goal when planning this trip.
Sadly, we discovered a few weeks prior to our departure that the railway had been temporarily closed due to dangerous rock slides (and maybe some “politics” between the Italian-company ownership and the Greek regulators).
Either way, we modified our plan a bit and, rather than hike down/train up, we drove to Zachlorou and used that as our starting point, with a descent to Niamata and a return to Zachlorou.
It was a beautiful day, and as it happened it was a Sunday, so we quickly met up with what appeared to be a guided group hike. Gradually putting distance between us and the group, we began to gain our rhythm – challenging on unevenly-space railroad ties, and also got our first views of the Vouraikos river and gorge.
While the footing wasn’t too kind, the scenery was stunning, offering many views with high contrast between rock and sky, and inspiring wonder at the skill needed during construction more than 120 years ago.
Around every bend, through every tunnel – some beautiful scenery – the views never got old.
Soon enough though, back at Zachlorou, we were returning to our room.
On a recommendation from our gracious hosts at Alpine Aria, we set off for what turned out to be a wonderful evening meal at Spitiko (OINOMAGEIREIO “homemade” (Spitiko) – google). It was crowded with what seemed to be a tour group, so we “shared” a table for 6 with another couple from Israel, and enjoyed a tasty meal and some good conversation.
The following morning – while chatting with our hosts over their scrumptious breakfast, we talked of our plans to visit the Helmos observatory. They dissuaded us – letting us know of the snow still on the summit (!), and instead suggested an alternate just outside of town and accessible from our stay.
The suggestion also gave us an opportunity to visit the Place of Sacrifice of Kalavryta – a permanent memorial to the place where the male population was massacred.
Paying our respects, we pressed on, gaining some elevation, and following pathways seemingly through private properties, rather than separate trails within some provincial or national park. Soon enough we were outside of the village, enjoying a commanding view of Kalavryta and Mt. Chelmos in the far distance.
And an equally impressive view of the Helmos observatory – which had been our original thought, before this better alternate was recommended.
On our return, we were greeted by some “locals”. In the distance, we saw a herd of sheep on what looked like the trail ahead. Not a problem, by the time we get there, the herd will have moved or we could move around them.
Not so fast… The locals – a half dozen sheep dogs, angry ones – came to the front of the herd as we approached the herd, and they were VERY intent, aggressively so, that we not come any closer. We quickly needed to backtrack and find another way back down. You know you’re in rural country when…
We made it safely back to our room, enjoyed an evening meal at one of the many taverna in the village.
Finally saying goodbye to Kalavryta and a wonderful trip exploring parts of Greece off the beaten path.
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